This is the card to get if you have a DSLR that shoots HD video. It’ll also let you blast continuous still frames as fast as your camera will go until the buffer is full. Slower cards will drop out on HD video recording and can’t keep up with high-speed continuous frames. “Brand name” cards (from Lexar and Sandisk) cost twice as much!

I’ve been using Transcend cards since i got my SD790 PowerShot in 2008 (that was an 8GB class 6 SDHC). I got a 600x 8GB card when i got my 7D this April, and quickly realized 8GB wasn’t big enough when shooting 25MB-per-shot RAW stills and HD video. I haven’t used all that many brands or types of cards for comparison, but these have never given me any problems.

In short, the Transcend 32GB 600x are solid quality, and the biggest, fastest CF cards at a great price!

Writing is only half the battle.

Don’t forget, to maximize the speed of transfers from the card to your computer you need a fast card reader. USB is too slow! I found this chart a while back showing the speeds of various card/reader combinations. The thing that stood out to me is that the fastest USB reader will hit 36MB/s, however some can do no better than 20MB/s — either way, far less than the 90MB/s maximum of 600x cards. A FireWire 800 CF card reader will be 2x faster than a USB reader. And an ExpressCard reader will be about 3x faster than USB. So multiply that out whenever you’re dumping a 32GB card to your computer. It could be the difference between checking Facebook updates vs going out to get lunch while you wait.

I’ve been using ExpressCard readers from Sonnet in my MacBook Pro, and have been very happy with the speed and convenience. If you have a notebook with an ExpressCard slot, Sonnet’s Multimedia Card reader is a must-have for SD and other smaller formats. It sits flush in the case, and makes viewing and copying photos super easy, no extra cables or parts needed — a no-brainer if you have a MBP with ExpressCard. I leave this reader in my MBP all the time. For CF cards, i got Sonnet’s CompactFlash reader. Slightly less convenient because the larger cards stick out from the side, but the speed is great, and it’ll mount two cards at once. And with both there’s no dangling cables and nothing taking up a USB or FireWire port.

Black Friday is all about getting you to spend money, even it’s on stuff you don’t really want or need, or money you don’t really have. Know what you want to get, know how much you want to spend, and stick to it. Sometimes “deals” aren’t. Often you’re better off finding the same thing online (cheaper with no tax), or a better quality product than the cheapo stuff they practically give away at midnight in stores. Wisebread has 5 tips for things you shouldn’t buy.

Know What You Want

Knowing specifically what you want to get and how much it’s worth and what you’re willing to pay is the single best thing you can do to make you a better shopper and keep money in your pocket. Going out to the malls “just to shop” this weekend can easily be either a waste of time or waste of money. Find specific items you want then research and comparison shop ahead of time. I start at Google and Amazon to get a baseline of a “good price” on most things. I also like Bountii for comparisons on electronics. Bountii lets you track item prices and will automatically send you alerts when prices drop, so you don’t have to check back periodically — it’s practically shopping for you. Don’t forget to factor in state sales tax, shipping, and any other fees (will you have to carry a credit card balance to buy it?). When comparing the same item at different retailers sometimes a higher initial price ends up being cheaper because there’s no tax or shipping charges and you could get some cash back bonuses.

Go Cheap

Don’t overlook refurbished and used items or auction and trading services. eBay and craigslist have incredible deals on perfectly good items that some people are just trying to get rid of (some perfectly new). Video games often go for half price slightly used and work just fine. I picked up a sealed copy of Forza Motorsport 3 for 25% off through craigslist because a guy got it for a gift and didn’t need it. “Certified refurbished” products are usually just like brand-new items and often come with similar warranties but at big discounts simply because they aren’t “new.” Just do your homework and make sure you know what you’re getting.

Get Money Back Guaranteed

If you’re going to shop online this weekend, make sure you take advantage of all the “free money” out there. I’ve saved about $200 just by using cashback services for purchases i’ve made online this year — and it was all stuff i was going to buy anyway. I’ve previously mentioned Ebates for really simple cashback when shopping online, but my current favorite is Mr. Rebates. Every time i buy something on eBay i use Mr. Rebates to get 3% cashback which can be combined with Bing cashback (10% during the holidays) for a total of 13% back on almost anything on eBay. They also have higher percentage rebates on many stores — i just got 8% back at Endless.com on a pair of shoes using Mr. Rebates. Just sign up for an account in seconds, click through to shop at thousands of online stores, and get money back. Most rebate sites will quarterly send you a paper check or a direct deposit to a PayPal account. Another cool thing about Mr. Rebates, Ebates, Spree, and many others is they offer referral bonuses when your friends sign up and make purchases. There are dozens of cashback sites, that all work about the same, so check who’s offering the biggest rebates where you’re shopping.

Bing cashback works similarly, you click on store links from the Bing site after you sign up and get percentage rebates on certain items or from certain retailers. Bing cashback at eBay has a few rules: it must be a Buy-It-Now purchase, not a regular auction and you have to pay via PayPal. But like i said, they’re currently offering 10% back that can be applied to almost anything you can find on eBay (just search at Bing.com and look for the gold coin icon). You can “stack” this with Mr. Rebates by first searching on Bing.com to activate cashback in eBay (save the item to My eBay to make it easy), then click on the eBay link in Mr. Rebates, find the item in My eBay and complete the Buy-It-Now purchase. Sometimes you get instant cashback without the 60 day waiting period.

I got $187 instant cashback from Bing on eBay.

• Bing cashback has increased holiday rebates like 10% back at Best Buy, Macy’s, and eBay.
• Ebates is offering double cashback at many retailers only on Black Friday.
• Mr. Rebates also has a long list of special rebates and coupons.

Another way to get money back is to use a rewards credit card on your purchases. It’s a simple way to get 1–3% back without doing anything extra. It can really add up on bigger purchases like TVs and computers. I personally use my rewards card to pay for everything i can to maximize my rewards, but of course i pay it off every month so i don’t run up balance fees.

I’m not sure what might be good for your needs and budget, but there is a lot of innovation in the DSLR market recently. Being a video guy, i’ve been very interested in the models that are capable of shooting video including HD video like Canon’s new EOS 7D because you can get gorgeous video with real lenses — though they are priced on the high end ($1700 and up not including lenses).

Canon EOS 7D currently one of just a few DSLRs that record HD video.

There are entry-level DSLRs like Canon’s Rebel XS (and equivalent Nikon and other brand models). But i’m not too familiar with what’s good or what you might like. I’m a big fan of Canon’s compact PowerShot Elph series, and recommend those without hesitation, but i’m not sure if any of that translates to DSLRs, nor about the differences between brands. I’ve never owned a DSLR, so don’t have much direct experience. The last SLR i used was a Canon AE-1 Program 35mm film camera, which i haven’t picked up in almost 10 years. Canon has just released the PowerShot S90 which is a continuation of the S models from several years ago (i think you had one). It has many advanced features like RAW format, full manual mode, and a slightly better lens, but it’s still a compact-versus-quality compromise compared to actual DSLR cameras.

Olympus EP-1 is a compact digital body with interchangeable lenses.

Another camera that i’ve just discovered is the Olympus E-P1 (and the upcoming E-P2) [via andertho on Flickr] * Update: a full review of the EP-1 by andertho on Flickr. It’s sort of a new “crossover” class of interchangeable-lens camera in a compact digital body. I like the idea here because SLRs are basically designs from decades ago that have been modified with digital sensors, and this is designed to be much smaller from the beginning but also have changeable lenses and modern features like LCD preview and video recording (which many DSLRs don’t currently have).

Olympus EP-1 size compared to an SLR

This is what i would do. Talk to or read some reviews from real people (magazines and big camera/gadget websites don’t always tell the whole story) and go play with some at Best Buy or a local camera shop like Penn to see how they actually feel to you. Figure out how much you would like to spend, but keep in mind that you’re investing in a system. To make it really usable, you will probably want to get extra batteries, memory cards (and reader for your computer), maybe another lens, a flash, a bag, and maybe a tripod (or GorillaPod). It’s not just a body + a lens. And there’s also going to be a learning curve with the all the features on advanced cameras. Because as nice as it is to have a great camera, the right knowledge and tools to make it work when and where you need it are what produce great images. And that’s not even scratching the surface of different sensor sizes, and RAW image formats and the software needed to view and edit RAW files from digital cameras.

Canon's collection of EF lenses for their EOS system SLR cameras.

Either way with interchangeable-lens cameras what you’re really buying into is a lens format. Once you commit to a certain brand and camera body, you have to get lenses that work with that format.

My first question when people ask me for recommendations is: what is it that you really want? You say you want a DSLR. Why? Better pictures? More megapixels? Different lenses? A big “pro” looking camera? A lot of the time people aren’t sure what they want or why they want it, and i just want to make sure you’re getting the best solution for you. And as always, once you do decide what you want, it’s my pleasure to help you find the best deal on it.

More in-depth reading:

• Review of Canon 7D compared to the full-frame 5D MkII from a video shooter’s point of view.
• Comparison of “advanced compact” cameras: Olympus EP-1, Panasonic LX3, Canon G10.
• Michael Reichmann’s Luminous Landscape has long been my favorite photography site with honest opinions based on first-hand real-world experience, not just numbers and charts.

* Update: a few more links to read:

• Review of the Olympus EP-1 with comparisons to the Nikon D-300 by andertho on Flickr. I’m even more interested in this little camera now.
• Advice on buying used DSLRs on PetaPixel. Good points here about not blowing all your money on the body. Kinda like i was saying about investing in a lens format: a collection of quality glass is “timeless” when compared to the camera bodies that become obsolete when newer models come out every year or so. Also, if you have to have the latest and greatest, then you’re gonna pay for it. If you need to stick to a budget, seriously consider buying slightly older used equipment.

* Update, 2010Feb10:
Canon just annouced the EOS Rebel T2i, which sounds perfect for me.

The game just came out last Tuesday, so i’ve been keeping an eye out for who has the best price. Buy.com has Forza 3 for only $52 with free shipping, which is 13% off the usual $60 (even more if you add in tax).

A masterpiece of game interface design. Simple, nearly invisible. Rewind is genius. And cockpit view—finally!

I’m also thinking about getting a steering wheel and pedals set. Unfortunately there’s only two options for full Forza 3 features with force feedback: the official Microsoft Wheel set, or the hardcore Fanatec set with Porsche steering wheel, pedals, and shifter that goes for $500. The going price for the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel seems to be $90 everywhere, which is a little more than i’d like to spend. I’ve seen one or two used on craigslist for closer to $50, but that’s always hit-or-miss.

• Forza Motorsport 3, $51.99 at Buy.com
• Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel, $89.49 at Amazon.com

Next week i’ll be looking for the best deal on Modern Warfare 2.

Here’s the cool part: when you sign up using this referral link, you and i will both get a $5 bonus after your first purchase. Then keep racking up the rebates when you shop online — just remember to click the store link on Ebates.com first.

The great thing about all this is that it’s free money! Why not get some cash back if you’re going to buy stuff online anyway? Even better is that this is on top of any cash back or rewards you might get when using your credit card. Don’t forget to follow @Ebates on Twitter for special rebate rates and offers. And if you’re a really shrewd consumer like me, shop comparison sites like Bountii and Google Products to see who has the lowest price, then check Ebate’s list of stores to see how much cash you’d get back.

If you’re worried that this sounds like a scam, it’s completely legit — shoppers have received over $40 million in cash back through Ebates since 1998 [via retailtouchpoints.com].

I feel like i have a ton of shopping tips because i’m always out to squeeze every last bit from my dollars, and usually manage to do a pretty well for myself. I’m gonna try to post tips and ideas a little more often. So in summary:

1. Click on this link.
2. Sign up at Ebates (it takes 15 seconds).
3. Get a free $5 bonus.

Somewhere from the time i first entered my itinerary to the time i clicked the “Book” button at the bottom, the Vayama.com website changed the dates of my flight from July to August and also added the Trip Insurance fee which i had made a point to deselect. The total on the checkout screen was $345.45 USD for the ticket, taxes & fees; then i placed the order and the receipt on the next screen said $366.52 USD for the fare, taxes, fees, and Trip Insurance. I noticed the different total immediately, and fired off an email to their support (they submitted to process a refund of the insurance policy which would take up to 3 weeks). And because of that anomaly, i was distracted from the fact that the travel dates were also changed from July to the same dates in August. It wasn’t until two days later after a busy weekend that i had noticed the whole itinerary was incorrect — long after Vayama’s 24 hour grace period (wherein it still costs a $50 void fee and $12 vayama service fee to cancel an incorrect booking).

So what happened? The only theory i have is that while i was comparison shopping, another site popped up a second Vayama search in another window which changed my itinerary with their website. Regardless, the original screen i had open still had the correct dates and total without the insurance plan — that is what i was agreeing to purchasing — no matter what may have happened behind the scenes with their website. This could have been prevented if their site expired the page after a certain time or if there was a confirmation or verification as the final step before the purchase. But it doesn’t and there isn’t. “Accidents” like this and absence of those safeguards mean Vayama (and the dozens of other sites like it) can leech more cancellation and rebooking fees.

Speaking of fees, after being on hold for customer support, Slumdog Millionaire eventually explained that the only option was to pay $450 in fees to have my flight changed to the correct dates. That’s $100 more than the original fare. In fees. What other industry costs so much for decreasingly less service, and is non-refundable with such strict limitations and outrageous fees?

Adding insult to injury, Vayama’s price was only $7 better than booking directly with US Airways, and that was only after their summer special $30 discount. I probably would have been better off not bothering with Vayama at all in the first place.

I’ve spent hours on calls and emails and still have no favorable options. Even my credit card says it will be near impossible to dispute the charge because there is no evidence that it wasn’t simply my mistake. But it wasn’t. One mistake i definitely will not be making is using Vayama.com again.

Update:
Anyone interested in helping me track down and reproduce the checkout “switch” flaw i encountered on vayama.com? Unless i can come up with some kind of proof, i have pretty much no chance at getting a refund on these fees. Leave a comment or @miahz on Twitter.

There was no special “In-Store Pickup” line as advertised on your website and the emails i was sent–i had to wait in the regular customer service line behind people returning things.

The clerk couldn’t find my item behind the counter–it was never pulled and reserved.  So another employee went and grabbed one off the shelf in the showroom.  While i was waiting at the counter.  DO YOU SEE THE PROBLEM WITH ALL OF THIS?

In-Store Pickup is supposed to be a convenience service that offers a shortcut.  Instead, i had to wait in line, and then wait again for the item that was supposed to be ready for me to pick up.  I could have just walked into the store, picked one up off the shelf and paid in the regular checkout in less time.  That is a big FAIL.  I also still think it’s ridiculous that a photo ID is required to pick up an item, when anyone can basically anonymously order and ship something online with just a credit card number, or swipe any card in the regular checkout without ID.

Basically, your In-Store Pickup service is pointless.  It makes it MORE difficult to make purchases.

GoCart is a shopping assistant built specifically for Google’s Android mobile phone platform.